from the airport of Sucre
Blijf op de hoogte en volg Chantal
07 April 2015 | Bolivia, Villa Madrecita
This time an update from the little airport of Sucre. I arrived here about half an hour ago for my 10:45 flight to La Paz, but at the check-in they told me the flight has a delay of 1 hour because of the weather. They cancel or postpone many flight here in Sucre because of rain, wind, clouds since the landing strip is a very difficult and short one.
Too bad, but at least it gives me time to tranquilly write my blog (free wifi all the time at the airports here and not only for just 20 minutes like at most European airports) and drink a fresh papaya shake for extra vitamins, since I caught a cold.
It started last Thursday with a throatache. First thought it was the pollution, then on Saturday and Sunday started to feel a bit sick (shivering) and loosing my voice... And now I cough so much and my nose is running. Yesterday Akemi bought me a mint balm (kind of Vicks vaporups) and that helps, but still had to cough a lot last night.
Had a nice and kind of busy last day in Sucre yesterday. In the morning I visited the museum of the cathedral. Normally I am not so into religious art or paintings but this little museum had a few nice ones. It's a pity though and it broke my archeological heart to see that most of them were damaged by humidity or with holes or scratches.
There were some nice paintings from Bernardo Bitti, a Jesuit from Italy who went to Peru and also to Bolivia. Famous for its work in the 16tth century. And then there was the famous capilla de la Virgen de Guadalupe. This painting of the patron of Sucre is completed decorated with gold, silver, diamonds and other precious stones. This makes here the richest Virgen in the Americas.
All the Virgens are depicted here with a kind of triangular cloak body. This refers to the indigenous symbol for Pachanama. She is always sitting/standing in a half moon and around her head are the beams of the sun. This refers to the Inca deities of the sun (Inti) and moon (quilla).
After this museum I went to a small anthropological museum which had a nice exhibition about masks which are used in rituals and dances in various areas of Bolivia. Some were made of an ants-nest, the head of a deer, bark of a tree, wood et cetera.
There was another exhibition about the Chillpaya culture.
Then I met Paul for lunch. After lunch I walked to the Parque Bolivar (the Parque with the little Eiffeltower) where I relaxed and wrote my blog till it became too cold.
Had my Ecuador bag fixed at a little sewing shop with a friendly guy who asked if I was here with my boyfriend and if I was married and at what age they marry in the Netherlands. He thought I was 25. What a compliment! :-) told him I was a little other the that ;-), but not my real age.
Then I went to the Convent/church Felipe Neri. Here I helped some women carry a heavy wooden altar tabletop from the church to another room. Heavy!! I asked them if there were not any strong men to help them, but there werent. When a nun saw me helping them she smiled at me.
The convent has a beautiful rooftop view over the white city of Sucre.
Finally I took another hike (had to digest my cheesecake) to the cementary. Really beautiful, green with lots of flowers and there were also many people. They have a kind of niches in which they put the name of the deceased, a picture and things he/she liked during life (for example small coca cola or alcohol bottles).
There was also a whole row for small children and babies. With their toys inside the niche. This made me feel a bit sad, seeing all the toys and photos. Walking back home up hill and down hill to my house. Had some rest and at night I met Akemi and Philly for dinner. That was nice!
And then I still had to pack my backpack... But the heavy big carpet I bought in Tarabuco fitted and my backpack still ways only "18" kilo now. So that's fine!
I already wrote about Sunday. Saturday I had an excursion to a nearby mountainous area named the "Cordillera de Los frailes".
First we visited the little church of Chataquila, where the Virgen de Chataquila appeared. She is painted on a stone now and in the little chapel where remains of offerings from local shamans: coca leaves (which they chew and then mix with alcohol and spit out, so the chapel smelled like coca), empty alcohol bottles, candles et cetera).
Then we hiked over a pre-in a trail downhill. Beautiful views over the colored mountains and little flowers everywhere. Then continued by car. Had lunch near some canyon. Beautiful! Saw colibris here!
Then we continued by car over the curved mountain road towards the small village of Potolo, famous for its weaving. The driver told us that just a few days before there was a terrible accident on this road with a mini bus since the driver was drunk after a party of a political party.
Potolo was really empty and small. A plaza and some mud brick houses and farm fields and mountains around. Went to see a local lady who showed us how she weaves in her little courtyard full of flies. And had a stroll around town. A lady asked my guide in Quecha (some people don't speak Spanish in the villages) if I wanted to buy weavings. But these are expensive (since it takes them 2 months basically, to finish them) and jIdidn't bring much money.
Then 2 hours back through the mountains to Sucre. They forgot that I was vegetarian, so my lunch consisted of fruit and yoghurt, which was ok, but was so hungry when I returned to Sucre. Inmediately ent to eat some nachos and then to the supermarket/bank before heading home.
At night I had dinner at the house of Philly, an English women who is a friend of a friend and lives here in Sucre for 9 years now. There were 3 other girls from Bolivia, a German girl and her Bolivian boyfriend. And the food was delicious: baba Ghanoush (eggplant dip), guacamole, humus and we made sushi. And lots of wine. A night full of fun!
So, that's about it for now. You must be tired from reading now... Will try to post some photos too.
Love,
Chantal
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